• Gyraf diy

    Gyraf diy

    This is a very interesting project I first learned about from the Prodigy-Pro forum. As luck would have it, this project came along about the time I was beginning work on my own version of the SSL Buss Compressor. The sound of the unit is fairly true to original although I can tell some differences in how the sidechain circuit reacts, particularly to material with a lot of low end.

    Apparently I'm not the only one to hear this as there are several mods and hot-rods for this project. I'm building a second unit now and will incorporate the SuperSideChain mod also discussed on the forum.

    I may also mod this unit depending on how useful the mod is. Here's a look at the inside of the unit. The board to the left of main board provides a true hardware bypass function implemented using sealed relays.

    gyraf diy

    The relays have their own power supply to help keep the noise to a minimum. They are the rectangular gold cans on the left side of the main board. I used Mogami cable for all audio path wiring and gold-plated XLR's on the back panel. Overall, a very satisfying project! A closeup of the relay board for the hardware bypass function. This turned out to be a pain in the butt to implement but is also very useful for making sure I'm not over-using the unit on mixes.

    A closeup of the main board and dbx C VCA's. You must be registered and logged in to leave a comment. We will not to spam you nor share your email address! Click on the upside down triangle in the left corner of the module to add your comment.

    Gyraf G1176

    Leave a Comment.The projects described on these pages are not commercial in any way. It also means that any for-profit use of the information on these pages is strictly prohibited.

    These pages are information only — but the best and most complete set of information we have been able to come up with. Direct your questions there, and check there for possible solutions for errors in your DIY-thingys:. NEVER work with live voltage switched on.

    Switch off, discharge, work, connect measuring equipment and power up. Always keep your mains connector in plain sight when working, so you can assure yourself that it really is disconnected. If possible, get an extra voltmeter, and keep it connected to the charging capacitator in your tube HT supply.

    Never touch anything before voltage drops beneath 48V. Always tidy up your working area before connecting your project to the mains. This gives you some time for second thoughts about what you are doing. Disclaimer: Notice that all information, schematics, layouts etc. Gyraf Audio shall not be responsible and disclaims all liability for any loss, liability, damage whether direct or consequential or expense of any nature whatsoever which may be suffered as a result of or which may be attributable, directly or indirectly, to the use of or reliance upon any information, links or service provided through this website.

    Also you should take extreme caution when working with mains voltages and the very high DC voltages ocurring in tube circuits. These voltages are lethal, and the smallest error will be chatastrophic. And we like you to stay alive and well, so you can help other people sharing our bizarre interest for building retro-pro-audio-equipment. German speaking sister board, www. In these places you can find answers for your DIY questions, by people that have actually tried building some of the projects.

    Without those guys, these pages would be a whole lot more confusing — their comments and questions has been an invaluable help. This is an adaptation of our popular Gyratec-IX microphone preamplifier. Featuring real-tube amplification, Phantom power, High-pass filter and Phase reverse as well as Line, Mic and Instrument inputs.The UREI Peak Limiter is a classic audio compressor designed by Bill Putnam, first built inmaking use of FETs and using them as a variable resistor to control the gain reduction in the circuit.

    The has been employed in countless recordings over the years and it is still used by almost every recording studio If you cannot afford a new unit e. On this web page I just try to give you the basic information and tips to build your own unit. Essentially this is a collection of wise advices of some guys on the web found on forums, newsgropus, web pages that are much more experienced than me. I'm very grateful to these people for what I've learned and what I could do with their teachings.

    Acknowledgments are at the bottom of the page.

    Gyraf G9 Tube Mic Pre-Amp – pcb set

    Figure 1. Figure 2. Figure 4. The Schematic for the compressor, Rev F. Figure 5.

    gyraf diy

    Lundahl LL Output Transformer. Figure 6. Figure Building up power supply first. Transformer connection diagrams. Fully assembled Mnats' rev. J PCB. Original UREI transfer characteristics. Index Introduction Which revision to choose?

    Since its introduction in the late '60s, thousands have been used for applications which require precise, automatic control of peak signal levels in the recording studios, disc mastering, broadcast. The UREI with its distinguished sound, remains popular to this days for its quality. Which revision to choose? Back to top It seems that the has been revised at least 13 times from to Some of those changes involved a redesign of the input or output stage or simply affected aesthetics.

    Now, let's have a look at a simplified description of each revision: Figure 1. How it works Back to top The LN Limiting Amplifier circuit is composed by three stages: input circuit, gain reduction GR circuit and output circuit.

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    Figure 3 shows the block diagram of the Figure 3. F can be built on the excellent Mnats' boards. He has made some upgrades upon the Gyraf's PCB rev 7 version.Enregistrer un commentaire. As I was waiting for my cases to rack my latest projects I thought about starting yet a new project. The starting point is that I bought 2 of them, one had already quite a few components soldered and the second is just the bare PCB. So I started to complete the one already soldered.

    And the starting point is to order everything that is needed. And I suddenly remembered that a PCB and components are mostly cheap, but it gets expensive real fast with metal work, transformers, tube, connectors and so on And you need to find a capsule I bought a C12 capsule from microphone parts.


    Fast shipping, unbeatable price. It's not the best on the market, chinese product but with high standards. A lot of people report that their capsules just work really well. I bought the parts from Conrad as they have cheap shipping costs. Still they managed to break this little order in 4 different parcels, one I'm still waiting for I bought the expensive Lundahl as proposed by Gyraf.

    OEP is also fine, but I wanted a high quality build this time. The don audio shipped the transformer really fast, thank you. The tube I bought 4 used ef86 on eBay. Let's see if they are as good as the seller claims. At least they look clean and fairly unused. Aucun commentaire:.I will try to update this page reguarly if anyone shows interest in its topics. Disclaimer: Notice that all information, schematics, layouts etc.

    Gyraf Audio shall not be responsible and disclaims all liability for any loss, liability, damage whether direct or consequential or expense of any nature whatsoever which may be suffered as a result of or which may be attributable, directly or indirectly, to the use of or reliance upon any information, links or service provided through this website.

    A classic FET compressor. Not tubes, but a nice do-it-yourself project. Click the picture to see a series of pics of the first one being made.

    Adaption includes changing to standard european transistors, component values, Lundall output transformer and rotary switches for easier enclosure layout.

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    Gerber-format files for the PCB. Thanks to Mikkel C. Simonsen for the conversion! Here you can find a PDF- version of the complete manual, including adjustment procedure and all. Observe, that this is a VERY large file — 7. Building should be straight forward. Quite a lot of people has succeeded till now. But there are some common errors that you should avoid:.

    Replace on suspicion. Here you can also connect the mains power ground from the IEC power connector if you need that. The input transformer option is there simply because I like what it does for the sound.

    You could use the procedure from the original. If you have no dist. Somehow this is not an important adjustment soundwise. No input signal.It has a characteristic quality that remains popular to this day. While versions of the compressor are still commercially available, the adventurous will want to build their own. I have seen various sites on the internet showing how to build a clone of the UREI compressor, some better than others. It is based on the UREI Revision F with a push-pull output stage rather than the previous class A output which requires a special output transformer with a tertiary feedback winding.

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    It also uses an IC opamp for the meter driver stage rather than the bipolar transistors used in earlier versions. Depending on which schematic you refer to and which option you choose, the input stage is based either on Rev.

    E and earlierF or G. In the Gyraf version, you have the option of using either a Lundahl input transformer or an IC based input stage which was definitely used in the Rev. G series. Modifications However, I had a few problems with the Gyraf Revision 7 printed circuit board. Replacements have been identified but have a different pinout than the originals, resulting in an ugly kludge scroll down the linked page to see a photo to get them into Gyraf's Rev 7 board.

    Jakob suggested a solution and step-by-step instructions were published on the now-defunct Tech Talk DIY Forum by deanp recovered and republished at The Lab. But as it involved reversing the output transformer it required again an ugly kludge of cutting circuit board tracks with a Dremel tool and adding pieces of wire.

    The last and most important major problem I wanted to overcome was the tendency for the clone to hum. Users reported excessive hum which was traced to ground loops occurring within the PCB itself. A quick scan of the Rev 7 layout revealed a literal loop where the ground trace ran all the way around the perimeter of the board. This hum problem had been solved with the Gyraf Rev 7 boards by running a heavy ground buss soldered to the ground trace lowering the resistance of the track to a point where the hum was nearly eradicated.

    Gyraf SSL Compressor Clone – pcb set

    Later it was suggested that a wire be run from one side of the board to the other, soldering it where the hum was at its minimum. More recently, a trace cut has been suggested and tried with good results. I thought a more elegant solution to this band-aid approach would be to try grouping the ground points in each circuit block and returning each group separately to a central star point.

    All this meant that the PCB would have to be redesigned although not too extensively. The original Gyraf Rev 7 board dimensions are mm x mm - a format apparently called a "Eurocard". This is a board that evidently is commonly found in pre-sensitised form in the European Union and elsewhere.

    While I had no such restrictions, usually cutting a board to size and coating it myself with photoresist, I thought I would try sticking to those dimensions anyway to see if it was possible to incorporate all the features into a size and shape many were familiar with.

    Given the popularity of the Gyraf design, keeping it similar rather than creating an entirely new design seemed sensible. I secured permission from Jakob to base a new design on his Rev 7 board and set about laying out the parts visually in Protel Autotrax using custom components I had created.

    I also polled the Forum for additional features others wanted to see and incorporated some of these in the new board. While I had reservations at first about the Gyraf design - in particular the orientation of parts seemingly only to avoid the need for any wire jumpers - my admiration for Jakob's design only grew as I began "connecting the dots".

    Though the layout isn't necessarily the most beautiful I've discovered it is truly a masterpiece in its own way. How do all those parts fit on the board?

    There is very little, if any, wasted space and there are ZERO jumpers.The project web site is here:. One change I made to the original design was to the power supply. The original design calls for two 30VA transformers.

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    The revised supply uses three still common 10VA transformers that I was able to get surplus. The connections of the transformers in the revised design may look a bit odd. Then 3 of the 12V secondaries are wired in series to bias the 48V regulator. Since the load on 48V is usually quite low not more than 10 or 20mA is was not necessary to connect the four available 12V windings in series.

    All that would have done is generate an overly high unregulated voltage and more heat in the 48V linear regulator circuit. Some changes were also made to the 48V regulator since I did not need the diode-capacitor voltage multiplier D8-D12, and C anymore.

    In the heater supply, I used an LM low-dropout regulator rather than a standard 78S12 type. You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account. You are commenting using your Twitter account. You are commenting using your Facebook account.

    Gyraf G9 Dual Channel Tube Preamp Build

    Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. Note that these changes were designed with VAC mains power in mind. Here is the original schematic, with none of my edits: Below is my modified transformer arrangement and power supply schematic: The connections of the transformers in the revised design may look a bit odd.

    Transformers and some of the circuitry for the V and 48V supplies. One board is flipped over when mounted in the preamp, which is why only two, rather than three transformers are visible in other pictures. Even though the tab is GND, it is still isolated from the panel to prevent ground loops.

    Board mods to underside of 48V regulator. Birdseye view before closing it up. Share this: Twitter Facebook. Like this: Like Loading

    gyraf diy


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